You’ve probably heard by now that some of the ingredients in your products are hazardous. Shampoo is regrettably no exception. Specifically, that so many common shampoos on the market include these substances and may be harming our health makes this list seem a little overwhelming and intimidating.
However, just like anything else, when we know better, we can do better. Am I right? So by you reading through these ingredients and knowing what is harmful and what to watch out for you can make a better decision for yourself and your family and find safer alternatives in the future. If you need some help looking for safer swaps then check out my list here.
Petrolatum
Petrolatum, or petroleum jelly, is derived from petroleum. It’s commonly used in personal care products for its moisturizing properties. When properly refined, petrolatum has no known health concerns, however, petrolatum is often not fully refined in the US, meaning it can be contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). When reading ingredient lists watch for Petrolatum, Petroleum Jelly, Paraffin Oil, and Mineral Oil. Note that the ingredient White Petrolatum indicates that it has been refined and is safe for use.
Octinoxate
Also called Octyl methoxycinnamate or (OMC), is a UV filter and it can be absorbed rapidly through skin. Octinoxate is an endocrine disruptor that mimics estrogen and can also disrupt thyroid function. It also accumulates in the body. When reading ingredient lists, watch for octinoxate, methoxycinnamate (OMC), parsol, parsol MCX, parsol MOX, escalol, and 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate.
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. It is known to have a link to leukemia, as well as initiating tumor formation.
Formaldehyde releasers can be formed one of two ways. One way is directly from formaldehyde. The second way is from a chemical that breaks down over time that produces formaldehyde. Either way we don’t want any of these in our products:
- Formaldehyde
- Quaternium-15
- DMDM Hydantoin
- Imidazolidinyl Urea
- Diazolidinyl Urea
- Polyoxymethylene urea
- Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
- Benzylhemiformal
- 2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol
- 5-Bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane
- Methenamine
- Glyoxal
Sodium lauryl sulfate and Sodium laureth sulfate (SLS/SLES)
SLS and SLES are surfactants that are found in a lot of our products and almost all of the mainstream shampoos you’ll find at stores. Use of this substance as a foaming agent is common. Foaming implies cleanliness, which is a popular misunderstanding. In general, getting acclimated to a shampoo that doesn’t lather is a bit different. The foam is typically doing more damage than good.
SLS and SLES are reportedly “safe for use” in our products. However, they have been shown to cause skin and eye irritations. In one study, researchers used the product to cause the formation of cataracts, to then study the repair of the cataracts with healing agents.
Lastly, SLES is a “milder” version of SLS that goes through an ethoxylation process which has a possibility to produce 1,4-Dioxane. 1,4-Dioxane is categorized as possibly carcinogenic to humans by IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer).
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium benzoate is a preservative commonly used in foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Sodium benzoate is a synthetic chemical produced when benzoic acid; which is found naturally in some fruits and spices, is combined with sodium hydroxide. Since sodium benzoate contains a natural ingredient, it is probably safe, right? After all, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Canadian Health Protection Branch have pronounced this chemical preservative to be acceptable when consumed in low amounts. In fact, the FDA has granted sodium benzoate GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) status. A small percentage of people are hypersensitive to sodium benzoate and can experience asthmatic attacks, hives, or other allergic reactions when they consume the preservative. A more common problem, however, is the combination of sodium benzoate and citric acid and/or ascorbic acid (vitamin C). When these ingredients get together, they form benzene, a cancer-causing chemical associated with leukemia and other blood cancers.
Triclosan
Triclosan is an anti-bacterial and anti-fungal agent. This substance is labeled as an endocrine disruptor. Due to a study showing it increases testosterone levels in human infants from prenatal exposure, and also in multiple animal studies showing triclosan has antiestrogenic and antiandrogenic properties. Triclosan is also suspected to be a carcinogen.
Also, this substance is absorbed through the skin and can cause dermatitis, allergies, and skin irritation.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Betaine was named American Contact Dermatitis Society 2004’s “Allergen of the Year”. People with sensitivities to this chemical experience contact dermatitis which is itchiness, redness, and tightness of the skin. Severe reactions have included sores and blisters as well.
This product has a few names including, but not limited to:
- 1-propanaminium
- hydroxide inner salt
- CADG
- cocamidopropyl dimethyl glycine
- disodium cocoamphodipropionate
Benzophenones
Benzophenones are used in shampoos to protect the scent from being damaged by UV light. These chemicals are known to cause skin irritation in humans. There has been evidence of tumor formation in mice, but it may not be relevant to humans. Even still, benzophenones are considered as possibly carcinogenic to humans.
Polysorbate 20, 40, 60, 80
Polysorbates are emulsifiers, or compounds that don’t allow your products to separate. Research states that polysorbates themselves are not carcinogenic, but they do enhance the activity of known chemical carcinogens. This means that if the polysorbates are paired with a known carcinogen in a product, you can expect that carcinogen to be stronger and more dangerous.
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA is used in shampoos as a chelating agent, meaning it binds with metal ions and deactivates them, preventing your product from deterioration.
This compound causes skin and eye irritation, is harmful if inhaled, may cause respiratory irritation, and can even cause damage to the organs through prolonged exposure.
Parabens (methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-)
Parabens are a type of preservative that is used in soaps to prevent the growth of bacteria and mold. Topical parabens have been detected in human breast tumors. This is concerning because parabens have been shown to mimic the action of the female hormone estrogen, which can encourage the growth of human breast tumors. Parabens can also cause diminished muscle mass and extra fat storing. In 2018, the American Contact Dermatitis Society named propylene glycol Allergen of the Year because of its potential to cause allergies and how frequently it is used in our products.
What to look for on the label:
- Ethylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Methylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Any ingredient which ends in –paraben
Ethoxylated ingredients (prefixes PEG- and poly-, suffixes -eth and -oxynol)
These products go through the ethoxylation process of being mixed with ethylene oxide. This in turn can produce 1,4-Dioxane. 1,4-Dioxane is one of the ingredients included in California’s Prop 65 warning for cancer causing agents. This product is a known carcinogen and has been shown to be harmful to a developing fetus, as well as increased incidences in nasal cavity, gall bladder, and liver tumors after exposure in animal studies.
Specifically the prefixes and suffixes above will help to identify ethoxylated ingredients but here is a list of others found in common household, beauty, and self-care products:
- Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer
- Ammonium Capryleth Sulfate
- Ammonium Pareth-25 Sulfate
- Ammonium Myreth Sulfate
- Ceteareth -20
- Cocamidopropyl Betaines
- Disteareth-75 IPDI, -100 IPDI
- Emulsifying Wax NF
- Steareth – 2, -4, 10, 16, -20, 21
- Isosteareth -2, -10, -20
- Magnesium Laureth Sulfate
- Magnesium Oleth Sulfate
- PEG’s – ingredients listed as a polyethylene glycol or with a PEG- prefix such as PEG-20, PEG-40
- Phenoxyethanol
- Polyoxyethylene
- Polysorbate-20, -40, -60, -80
- Steareth-2, -4, -10, -16, -20, -21
- Sodium Coceth Sulfate
- Sodium Deceth Sulfate
- Sodium Oleth Sulfate
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Trideceth Sulfate
- Zinc Coceth Sulfate
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (QUATs and QACs)
QUATs are commonly added to household products for their disinfecting properties but they can also be used as a surfactant. QUATs can disrupt key cellular processes and have been linked to a broad range of health issues including reproductive and development problems in animals. In one laboratory where studies were completed on mice, the staff switched from a chlorine-based disinfectant to QUATs, which resulted in fertility issues and neural tube defects in the mice. It has also been found that QUATs are resilient on surfaces, and it takes months to get rid of the residue. So, it is crucial not to use them on food preparation surfaces. They are related to a broad range of health issues that include skin and eye irritations, as well as respiratory problems such as asthma and allergies. Children are particularly at risk of developing complications. These chemical exposures have been linked to 5% of childhood cancer and 30% of childhood asthma.
Watch for ingredients that end in “ammonium chloride”, some examples are listed below:
- Alkyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride
- Didecyldimethylammonium chloride
- Dioctyldimethylammonium chloride
- Benzalkonium chloride
- Benzethonium chloride
- Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
- Behentrimonium chloride
- Cetrimonium chloride
- Stearalkonium chloride
- Methylbenzethonium chloride
- Cetylpyridinium chloride
- Quaternium-15
- Polyquaternium-7
Products that are labeled as “antimicrobial” or “antibacterial” most likely contain QUATs.
Undisclosed Fragrance, Perfume, Parfum
Fragrance, or parfum, is a common ingredient in lotions, personal care products and other everyday items such as cleaning supplies, laundry detergents, and soaps. The most frustrating fact about this ingredient is that it is a catch-all term that allows companies to conceal up to 3000 different ingredients just under this one word. This is completely legal, and it allows the companies to keep their “trade secret recipe” under wraps.
Unfortunately, many studies have shown that “fragrances” almost always contain phthalates which are endocrine disruptors and can be detrimental to your hormone health. They can also cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, migraines, sinus problems, and respiratory issues.
Be careful since some products with the label “unscented” nevertheless still contain fragrance, so it’s best to always check the ingredient label yourself rather than relying on the marketing on the bottle. I believe it’s equally important to point out that some companies are transparent about the ingredients in their fragrances.
Dye
Along with our foods, detergents, soaps, and basically every product on the market, shampoos have artificial dyes too. Dyes can be a culprit for unexplained rashes or allergies with exposure to the product. A lot of the dyes used are carcinogens and almost all of them are endocrine disruptors.
Phthalates
Additionally, phthalates are chemicals used as gelling agents in shampoos. These help the fragrance last longer. It increases the ability to spread of the other chemicals within the product.
Phthalates are able to enter the body both through skin absorption and inhalation. According to research, these chemicals stay inside the body and slowly accumulate within our fatty tissues. Instead of causing immediate symptoms, they tend to lead to long-term serious health conditions after prolonged use.
Several studies have proven the effects phthalates have on the reproductive system, causing hormone disruption, low sperm count, sperm DNA damage, and even infertility in some cases. Exposure to phthalates in pregnant women may also increase the risk of gestational diabetes and miscarriage.
In the case of exposure to infants and children, phthalates can cause asthma, allergies, eczema, lowered IQ, ADHD, premature puberty, and male genital deformities.
The EPA, or Environmental Protection Agency, named some phthalates including DEHP, Di(2-Ethlhexyl) phthalates, a probable carcinogen.
Alkanolamines
- monoethanolamine (MEA)
- diethanolamine (DEA)
- triethanolamine (TEA)
Alkanolamines are used as wetting agents in cosmetics. DEA, specifically, is used to provide lather in shampoos. There is little to no information regarding the safety of this chemical in humans, but has shown to increase the incidence of liver and kidney tumors in mice from dermal exposure.
With alkanolamines the main concern is their interaction with other chemicals. It creates an extremely potent carcinogen called nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA). This is readily absorbed through the skin and has been linked to the development of stomach, esophagus, liver, and bladder cancers.
Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and Benzisothiazolinone (BIT)
Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) is an antifungal and antimicrobial agent and used as a preservative. It is considered toxic if swallowed or upon skin contact, causes severe skin burns and eye damage, and is fatal if inhaled.
Benzisothiazolinone (BIT) is also a preservative, microbicide, and fungicide, proven to produce skin sensitization and allergic contact dermatitis upon dermal exposure.
Polyethylene Glycol (PEG Compounds)
PEG’s or polyethylene glycols are petroleum-based compounds used in cosmetics and personal care products to help keep ingredients stable and enhance the penetration of other active ingredients. PEGs are typically followed by a number indicating how many units of ethylene glycol they contain, for example PEG-4 or PEG-100; the lower the number, the more easily the compound is absorbed into skin. The largest issue with them is they may be contaminated with measurable amounts of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, both of which are carcinogens. Because they are penetration enhancers, depending on what other ingredients are in the product, they can potentially make other toxic chemicals more harmful as well.
Eaxmples include PEGs, PEG polymers and polysorbates:
- PEG-4
- PEG-6
- PEG-7
- PEG-8
- PEG-75
- PEG-100
- PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
- PEG-20 lauramine
- PEG-10 Dimethicone
- Polysorbate 20
- Polysorbate 40
- Polysorbate 60
- Polysorbate 80
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Vitamin E, or Tocopherol, is used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent.
Tocopherol should be avoided for those with sensitivities. While the consensus over this ingredient is that it is generally safe, it is labeled as a skin irritant and should be handled with gloves.
Additionally, there is a bit of controversy over tocopherol due to studies linking tocopherol injections to tumors in mice. However, this is not talking about applying it onto the skin and the topical application studies show it is overall safe. This is just something to be aware of if you have skin sensitivities.
Wow! Now that’s quite the list!
This might be overwhelming and even a little disheartening to scroll through this list. Really though, that is why I’m here to help as I completely understand. By making these posts about what’s in our products available I hope it helps you to feel confident that whatever you’re using on your body is safe. Feel free to visit this page when you are prepared to make the switch to something better if you haven’t done so already. I will provide you with a list here of all the things that I feel confident using on both myself and my children. Keep reading and learning! Everyone begins somewhere. And believe me when I say that I myself am still learning.